Most trees that fall during storms were already in trouble before the wind started blowing.
That is not a guess. Arborists who assess storm damage consistently find the same thing: the trees that come down are the ones that had visible defects, hidden decay, compromised roots, or structural weaknesses that nobody addressed. The storm just finished what was already in progress.
South Jersey is not in the direct path of hurricanes every year, but we get hit by tropical remnants, nor’easters, severe thunderstorms, and straight-line winds that can easily reach 60 to 80 mph. That is more than enough to bring down a weakened tree.
The good news is that you can evaluate most of the risk factors yourself with a walk around your yard. Here is a step-by-step guide to checking your trees before storm season, what to look for, and when to call in a professional.
Start from the Ground: Check the Roots
The root system is the foundation of the tree. If the roots are compromised, nothing above them matters.
Walk around the base of each tree on your property and look for these warning signs:
Raised or cracked soil. If the ground on one side of the tree is lifting or cracking, the root plate may be shifting. This means the roots are losing their grip in the soil. A tree with a moving root plate can topple in moderate wind, especially after rain saturates the ground.
Exposed roots. Some surface roots are normal, especially on older trees. But if you see large roots that have been severed by construction, lawn equipment, or grade changes, the tree has lost part of its anchoring system. Roots that have been cut on one side make the tree more vulnerable to falling in the opposite direction.
Fungal growth at the base. Mushrooms or shelf fungi growing at the base of the trunk or on surface roots are a sign of root decay. The fungus is feeding on dead or dying wood beneath the surface. The more decay present in the root system, the less stable the tree is.
Soil compaction. Trees in areas with heavy foot traffic, vehicle parking, or construction activity may have compacted soil that restricts root growth and drainage. Compacted roots cannot spread as wide or anchor as deeply, making the tree less stable.
Standing water. If water consistently pools around the base of a tree after rain, the soil stays saturated longer. Saturated soil dramatically reduces the friction that holds roots in place. This is one of the primary reasons trees uproot during nor’easters, which typically bring prolonged rain before the strongest winds arrive.
Move Up: Inspect the Trunk
The trunk is the structural column of the tree. Any weakness here puts the entire tree at risk.
Cracks and splits. Vertical cracks running along the trunk are one of the most serious defects a tree can have. A crack indicates that the wood has already failed at that point. Under wind stress, the crack can widen rapidly, splitting the trunk open. Even a small crack can lead to catastrophic failure if it extends through the cross-section of the trunk.
Cavities and hollows. A hole in the trunk where a branch used to be, or a cavity that has developed from decay, reduces the tree’s structural strength at that point. A tree can tolerate some internal hollowing and remain standing, but the larger the cavity relative to the trunk diameter, the greater the risk of failure.
Fungal growth on the trunk. Shelf fungi, conks, or mushrooms growing on the trunk (not just at the base) indicate internal decay. The visible fungus is just the fruiting body. The organism itself is inside the trunk, consuming the wood. By the time you see fungal growth on the trunk, the decay may be extensive.
Cankers. A canker is a sunken, dead area of bark, often caused by disease or injury. Cankers weaken the trunk at their location and can spread over time. A large canker on the main trunk is a red flag.
Codominant stems. If your tree has two main trunks that split from the same point, look at the junction where they meet. A wide, U-shaped junction is generally strong. A tight, V-shaped junction with bark pressed between the two trunks (called included bark) is weak. Codominant stems with included bark are one of the most common failure points during storms. The two trunks push apart under wind load and split down the middle.
Look Up: Evaluate the Canopy
The canopy is what catches the wind. Its size, density, and condition determine how much force the trunk and roots have to absorb during a storm.
Dead branches. Any dead branch is a potential projectile. Dead wood is brittle and can snap in moderate wind, falling on whatever is below. Arborists call large dead branches “widowmakers” for a reason. Dead branches over 1 inch in diameter should be removed, especially if they are over your house, driveway, walkway, or areas where people spend time.
Hanging or broken branches. A branch that is partially detached but still hanging in the canopy is an immediate hazard. It does not need a storm to come down. A gust of wind, a heavy rain, or even gravity can finish the job at any time.
Dense, unpruned canopy. A canopy that has not been thinned in years catches more wind. The denser the canopy, the greater the wind load on the trunk and roots. Proper crown thinning allows wind to pass through the canopy, reducing the total force on the tree. Research has shown that crown thinning reduces tree movement at all wind speeds.
Lopsided growth. A tree that has most of its canopy weight on one side is unbalanced. Under wind, the heavy side acts like a sail, pulling the tree in that direction. An unbalanced canopy increases the chance of the tree falling or losing a major limb on the heavy side.
Signs of past topping. If a tree was topped in the past, it likely has clusters of water sprouts growing from the stub cuts. These sprouts are weakly attached and prone to snapping off in storms. A previously topped tree is a higher risk than one that has been properly pruned throughout its life.
Assess the Whole Picture: Location and Targets
A tree in the middle of an open field poses little risk even if it falls. The same tree 15 feet from your house is a completely different situation.
Walk your property and note:
Which trees are within striking distance of your house, garage, driveway, fence, or neighbor’s property? If a tree is tall enough to reach a structure when it falls, it deserves close attention.
Which trees are near power lines? A tree that falls into power lines creates a dangerous situation that goes beyond property damage. Contact your utility company if you notice trees growing into or near overhead lines.
Which trees have targets beneath them? A target is anything that could be damaged or anyone who could be injured if the tree or a branch fails. Parked cars, play equipment, patios, walkways, and seating areas are all targets. The higher the value or risk of the target, the more important it is to address defects in the tree above it.
A Simple Pre-Storm Checklist
Here is a condensed version you can walk through in 15 to 20 minutes:
Roots: Any soil heaving, cracking, or lifting around the base? Any mushrooms or fungi at ground level? Any standing water or drainage problems?
Trunk: Any cracks, splits, or cavities? Any fungal growth on the bark? Any codominant stems with tight V-shaped junctions? Any large cankers or dead bark?
Canopy: Any dead branches larger than 1 inch? Any hanging or partially broken limbs? Is the canopy dense and unpruned? Is the weight distribution balanced?
Lean: Has the tree developed a new lean? A tree that has leaned for its entire life has adapted to that position. A new lean, especially after a recent storm or period of heavy rain, indicates root failure and is a serious warning sign.
Location: Is the tree close enough to hit your house, garage, car, fence, or neighbor’s property if it falls?
If you answered yes to any of these, the next step is a professional evaluation.
When to Call a Professional
A homeowner walkthrough can catch the obvious warning signs. But many tree defects are not visible from the ground. Internal decay, root rot below the soil surface, cracks hidden by bark, and structural weaknesses in upper branches all require a trained eye and sometimes specialized equipment to detect.
A certified arborist can perform a tree risk assessment that evaluates every part of the tree: roots, trunk, branches, and canopy. They can also factor in species-specific vulnerabilities, soil conditions, and the tree’s history to give you a clear picture of the risk.
The ISA recommends tree inspections every one to three years for mature trees, with more frequent checks for trees near structures or in areas with severe weather. In South Jersey, where storm season brings real wind events multiple times a year, regular inspections are a smart investment.
Bumblebee Tree Service provides professional tree risk assessments and all tree care services across Gloucester County, Camden County, and the surrounding areas. If a tree needs pruning, our crew can thin and reduce the canopy to improve its wind resistance. If a tree needs to come down, we handle safe removal and stump grinding so the job is done completely.
Do Not Wait for the Forecast
The worst time to evaluate your trees is when a storm is already on the way. Arborists are booked solid in the days before a major weather event, and emergency crews are overwhelmed in the aftermath.
The best time to check your trees is right now, on a calm day, with no urgency. Walk your yard, look for the warning signs listed above, and schedule a professional inspection if anything concerns you. The cost of prevention is always less than the cost of cleanup.
If you need a tree evaluated or want to prepare your property for storm season, Bumblebee Tree Service offers emergency tree service and free estimates for all preventive work.
